I was incredibly fortunate to begin 2026 with a dive trip to the Maldives. My partner and I have been before, and we knew the ocean life there was unparalleled—so returning felt both exciting and meaningful.
We had two clear priorities: environmental stewardship and privacy. We wanted to experience the ocean responsibly, and we wanted to do so without crowds. We found both at Soneva Secret, located in the largely untouched waters of the Maldives’ Makunudhoo Atoll.
In January, mantas migrate through this region, and we hoped we might see one. We saw so many, we lost count.
Only once before have I experienced this level of biodiversity—on land in Costa Rica, after the country banned recreational and trophy hunting in 2012. That landmark Wildlife Conservation Law made Costa Rica the first nation in Latin America to fully prohibit sport hunting, reinforcing a national commitment to conservation that has resulted in extraordinary biodiversity. At Soneva Secret, we experienced that same abundance underwater.
On our first day, we snorkeled in crystal-clear water and almost immediately encountered mantas. Before entering the water, the divemaster provided a clear briefing: no chasing, no touching, no disturbing wildlife. It’s a small but critical step that many resorts neglect, allowing irresponsible or uninformed tourism to disrupt fragile ecosystems. Here, respect was non-negotiable.
We were alone—no other boats, no other snorkelers—and we watched manta after manta glide past: enormous females, smaller males, moving with effortless grace. It was awe-inspiring, and it was only the beginning.
The scuba diving that followed was extraordinary. We’ve been PADI certified since 2006 and dive every year, yet on these dives we saw more ocean life than on almost all our previous dives combined. At one point, we were surrounded by shoals of fish in every direction, with five rays passing on one side and four reef sharks on the other. As we ascended, squid appeared, seemingly out of nowhere. From our dive boat, we saw a pod of dolphins playing. On another journey, we saw huge yellow fin tuna leaping in the waves. It felt dreamlike. It is what I wish the world could be like all the time.
We never encountered another diver or another dive boat. There was only ocean, marine life, and a deep sense of peace. That level of abundance and beauty is impossible without protection. The dive team embodied this truth—focused on sustainability, responsibility, and coexistence rather than interference. It was refreshing, and it was deeply moving.
Beyond the underwater world, Soneva Secret offered a level of luxury that is increasingly rare. In an era when nearly every brand labels itself “luxury,” true luxury has become difficult to find. Glossy marketing and beautiful design abound, but they often miss the most essential element: people.
At many so-called luxury destinations, staff are transient or temporary. Here, the team was composed of career hospitality professionals—thoughtful, skilled, highly trained, and deeply committed to service. The kindness, care, and professionalism were beyond compare.
I worked most closely with Leoni and Anna. Anna brought joy and warmth to everything she did, maintaining our villa in perfect condition while preserving absolute privacy. How she managed that balance so flawlessly remains a mystery to me, but I was deeply grateful.
Leoni curated our entire experience with extraordinary intuition and precision. She was titled “Butler," however that feels like an inadequate word. She designed a flexible, bespoke itinerary that reflected our personalities perfectly—from plant-based, vegan menus crafted by exceptional chefs, to recommending dive and snorkel sites, arranging spa treatments, a private sound bath meditation, a stargazing session with an astronomer, a zipline ride (in formal dinner clothes, no less), and a magical evening at the restaurant Out of This World. No request was too large or too small. She handled everything with calm competence and grace.
Our stay also included daily spa treatments—each one a tailored experience. The spa team was exceptional: highly trained, professional, and genuinely gifted. Anyone who receives regular massages knows that true healing presence is rare. These women were healers. Their work went far beyond technique, and it left a lasting impression.
Environmental stewardship was woven into every detail. Solar panels provided energy from the sun. There was virtually no plastic or disposable waste. Even the clear, plastic-looking bag for wet clothes was made from a plant-based, degradable biomaterial. Freshly laundered dresses were returned in reusable cotton garment bags. Cocktails arrived with rice straws. Every choice reflected care for the planet.
We stayed in the Crusoe Villa, floating over the ocean in complete seclusion. Words cannot fully capture how perfect it was. There was even a waterslide directly into the sea, which we used repeatedly—rediscovering a childlike sense of joy and wonder that adulthood often erodes.
We left with memories I will carry forever. My only hope is that resorts across the Maldives follow the example set by places like Costa Rica and end aquatic “trophy” hunting and so-called "sport" fishing. I have seen once-pristine dive sites destroyed by overexploitation.
Dhipparufushi Lagoon remains pristine, as it has been for thousands of years. With responsible resorts and thoughtful travelers, places like this can remain protected. They deserve nothing less.
**Some of you have reached out with great questions about sun safety. Find more about that by scrolling below the photos.**
A Few Free Dive Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL_UZnjGSGT2nyQZqrHjresaxstEPJp104
Photos:
We had two clear priorities: environmental stewardship and privacy. We wanted to experience the ocean responsibly, and we wanted to do so without crowds. We found both at Soneva Secret, located in the largely untouched waters of the Maldives’ Makunudhoo Atoll.
In January, mantas migrate through this region, and we hoped we might see one. We saw so many, we lost count.
Only once before have I experienced this level of biodiversity—on land in Costa Rica, after the country banned recreational and trophy hunting in 2012. That landmark Wildlife Conservation Law made Costa Rica the first nation in Latin America to fully prohibit sport hunting, reinforcing a national commitment to conservation that has resulted in extraordinary biodiversity. At Soneva Secret, we experienced that same abundance underwater.
On our first day, we snorkeled in crystal-clear water and almost immediately encountered mantas. Before entering the water, the divemaster provided a clear briefing: no chasing, no touching, no disturbing wildlife. It’s a small but critical step that many resorts neglect, allowing irresponsible or uninformed tourism to disrupt fragile ecosystems. Here, respect was non-negotiable.
We were alone—no other boats, no other snorkelers—and we watched manta after manta glide past: enormous females, smaller males, moving with effortless grace. It was awe-inspiring, and it was only the beginning.
The scuba diving that followed was extraordinary. We’ve been PADI certified since 2006 and dive every year, yet on these dives we saw more ocean life than on almost all our previous dives combined. At one point, we were surrounded by shoals of fish in every direction, with five rays passing on one side and four reef sharks on the other. As we ascended, squid appeared, seemingly out of nowhere. From our dive boat, we saw a pod of dolphins playing. On another journey, we saw huge yellow fin tuna leaping in the waves. It felt dreamlike. It is what I wish the world could be like all the time.
We never encountered another diver or another dive boat. There was only ocean, marine life, and a deep sense of peace. That level of abundance and beauty is impossible without protection. The dive team embodied this truth—focused on sustainability, responsibility, and coexistence rather than interference. It was refreshing, and it was deeply moving.
Beyond the underwater world, Soneva Secret offered a level of luxury that is increasingly rare. In an era when nearly every brand labels itself “luxury,” true luxury has become difficult to find. Glossy marketing and beautiful design abound, but they often miss the most essential element: people.
At many so-called luxury destinations, staff are transient or temporary. Here, the team was composed of career hospitality professionals—thoughtful, skilled, highly trained, and deeply committed to service. The kindness, care, and professionalism were beyond compare.
I worked most closely with Leoni and Anna. Anna brought joy and warmth to everything she did, maintaining our villa in perfect condition while preserving absolute privacy. How she managed that balance so flawlessly remains a mystery to me, but I was deeply grateful.
Leoni curated our entire experience with extraordinary intuition and precision. She was titled “Butler," however that feels like an inadequate word. She designed a flexible, bespoke itinerary that reflected our personalities perfectly—from plant-based, vegan menus crafted by exceptional chefs, to recommending dive and snorkel sites, arranging spa treatments, a private sound bath meditation, a stargazing session with an astronomer, a zipline ride (in formal dinner clothes, no less), and a magical evening at the restaurant Out of This World. No request was too large or too small. She handled everything with calm competence and grace.
Our stay also included daily spa treatments—each one a tailored experience. The spa team was exceptional: highly trained, professional, and genuinely gifted. Anyone who receives regular massages knows that true healing presence is rare. These women were healers. Their work went far beyond technique, and it left a lasting impression.
Environmental stewardship was woven into every detail. Solar panels provided energy from the sun. There was virtually no plastic or disposable waste. Even the clear, plastic-looking bag for wet clothes was made from a plant-based, degradable biomaterial. Freshly laundered dresses were returned in reusable cotton garment bags. Cocktails arrived with rice straws. Every choice reflected care for the planet.
We stayed in the Crusoe Villa, floating over the ocean in complete seclusion. Words cannot fully capture how perfect it was. There was even a waterslide directly into the sea, which we used repeatedly—rediscovering a childlike sense of joy and wonder that adulthood often erodes.
We left with memories I will carry forever. My only hope is that resorts across the Maldives follow the example set by places like Costa Rica and end aquatic “trophy” hunting and so-called "sport" fishing. I have seen once-pristine dive sites destroyed by overexploitation.
Dhipparufushi Lagoon remains pristine, as it has been for thousands of years. With responsible resorts and thoughtful travelers, places like this can remain protected. They deserve nothing less.
**Some of you have reached out with great questions about sun safety. Find more about that by scrolling below the photos.**
A Few Free Dive Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL_UZnjGSGT2nyQZqrHjresaxstEPJp104
Photos:
Sun Safety and Skin Cancer
A few people reached out with terrific questions about sun safety when traveling to spots like the Maldives, which are on the equator with very strong sun (9-12 for those who measure, which is super high). Particularly for people who are fair skinned and/or have experienced skin cancer, this can be really frightening. First and foremost, speak with your doctor and determine what risks are appropriate and acceptable for you.
My days of lying out in the sun and tanning and coming back from holiday a different color than when I arrived are long over ... and that's ok. I have learned that diving in a rash guard is actually more comfy and gives way more freedom than diving in a string bikini and really, who was I trying to impress? The dolphins do not care what anyone is wearing (as long as the sunscreen is reef-safe). What I did was:
(1) Wear UPF 50, reef-safe (really important to make sure sunscreen is reef-safe - you don't want to poison the very sea creatures you came to visit) sunscreen. For health and safety reasons, I prefer non-nano zinc oxide physical sunscreen over chemical sunscreens. Zinc oxide can leave a white cast on the skin so some folks don't like their aesthetic, however, they've come a long way and a tinted non-nano zinc on the face can actually do wonders for your complexion. In case you aren't aware: non-nano zinc oxide refers to zinc oxide particles larger than 100 nanometers, making them too big to absorb into skin or harm marine life, creating a safe physical barrier on the skin to block UVA/UVB rays, commonly used in "reef-safe" sunscreens and sensitive skin products for its gentle, broad-spectrum protection. Check your sunscreen label to be sure.
(2) Avoid peak sun hours. No, this does not mean you'll spend your entire holiday inside. We slept and woke up by the sun and started our day by jumping in the ocean with screams of joy every day. Usually, this was followed by a morning dive. We were back by 11am (peak sun hours had begun!) and used the time between 11am and 4pm to swim in the shaded pool, eat a leisurely lunch, go to the (indoor) gym and work out, go to the spa, and shower. You'd be surprised how fast the time would fly before it was back into the ocean for evening snorkel, kayak, dive, or swim.
(3) UPF clothing. Like zinc oxide, it has come a long way. I bought a bunch of super cute UPF 50 clothes and I liked a lot of them so much, I now wear them regardless of sun exposure because they're so adorable. This also makes life way easier if you are trying to get out there fast - you can skip sunscreen on your entire torso and arms by just throwing on a UPF 50 rashguard.
(4) Sunglasses. Good ones with max protection.
A few people reached out with terrific questions about sun safety when traveling to spots like the Maldives, which are on the equator with very strong sun (9-12 for those who measure, which is super high). Particularly for people who are fair skinned and/or have experienced skin cancer, this can be really frightening. First and foremost, speak with your doctor and determine what risks are appropriate and acceptable for you.
My days of lying out in the sun and tanning and coming back from holiday a different color than when I arrived are long over ... and that's ok. I have learned that diving in a rash guard is actually more comfy and gives way more freedom than diving in a string bikini and really, who was I trying to impress? The dolphins do not care what anyone is wearing (as long as the sunscreen is reef-safe). What I did was:
(1) Wear UPF 50, reef-safe (really important to make sure sunscreen is reef-safe - you don't want to poison the very sea creatures you came to visit) sunscreen. For health and safety reasons, I prefer non-nano zinc oxide physical sunscreen over chemical sunscreens. Zinc oxide can leave a white cast on the skin so some folks don't like their aesthetic, however, they've come a long way and a tinted non-nano zinc on the face can actually do wonders for your complexion. In case you aren't aware: non-nano zinc oxide refers to zinc oxide particles larger than 100 nanometers, making them too big to absorb into skin or harm marine life, creating a safe physical barrier on the skin to block UVA/UVB rays, commonly used in "reef-safe" sunscreens and sensitive skin products for its gentle, broad-spectrum protection. Check your sunscreen label to be sure.
(2) Avoid peak sun hours. No, this does not mean you'll spend your entire holiday inside. We slept and woke up by the sun and started our day by jumping in the ocean with screams of joy every day. Usually, this was followed by a morning dive. We were back by 11am (peak sun hours had begun!) and used the time between 11am and 4pm to swim in the shaded pool, eat a leisurely lunch, go to the (indoor) gym and work out, go to the spa, and shower. You'd be surprised how fast the time would fly before it was back into the ocean for evening snorkel, kayak, dive, or swim.
(3) UPF clothing. Like zinc oxide, it has come a long way. I bought a bunch of super cute UPF 50 clothes and I liked a lot of them so much, I now wear them regardless of sun exposure because they're so adorable. This also makes life way easier if you are trying to get out there fast - you can skip sunscreen on your entire torso and arms by just throwing on a UPF 50 rashguard.
(4) Sunglasses. Good ones with max protection.
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